Meet the Man Behind the Margarita: Julio Bermejo's Favorite Tequilas

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Meet the Man Behind the Margarita: Julio Bermejo's Favorite Tequilas
Photo by Francisco Galarza / Unsplash

If you've ever had a margarita made with just tequila, lime, and agave nectar instead of the usual triple sec, you've had Julio Bermejo to thank. I've always found his story fascinating, not just because he changed how the whole world drinks margaritas, but because it's a reminder that some of the best things come from someone who simply cared enough to do it right.

Bermejo is a San Francisco native and the beverage manager at Tommy's, the Mexican restaurant his parents, Tomas and Elmy, opened in the Richmond District back in 1965. In the mid 1980s, he made a decision that seems obvious now but was a real gamble at the time. He stopped pouring mixto tequila and switched Tommy's entire well to 100% agave tequila, making it the first restaurant in the country to pour 100% agave exclusively. Not long after, he created what we now know as the Tommy's Margarita, swapping out the orange liqueur for agave nectar so the tequila itself could shine. It caught on in a big way. In 2008, it became the first venue-specific cocktail included in the International Bartenders' Association's official manual.

Over the years, Bermejo has built one of the largest collections of 100% agave tequila outside of Mexico and started a tequila tasting club at Tommy's with more than 7,000 members. The Wall Street Journal has called the bar the epicenter of tequila in the United States, and CNN has called it ground zero of the tequila revolution. He's also earned a Tales of the Cocktail Lifetime Achievement Award, which in the cocktail world is about as high an honor as it gets.

The Tequilas He Reaches For

What I appreciate about Bermejo is that his taste has evolved through actual relationships with the people making the tequila, not just marketing. Over the decades, Tommy's house pour has shifted a few times, and each move tells a bit of a story.

He started with Herradura, learning directly from Guillermo Romo de la Peña, the former owner of the brand, who mentored Bermejo starting when he was just 21. Herradura stayed the house tequila at Tommy's for 23 years.

From there, Tommy's moved to Arette for about 11 years. Bermejo has called it a classic, describing it as slightly herbaceous with some grassy notes, and it remains a strong value even today, often available for well under $30 a bottle. He's stayed close to the brand over the years, even signing a barrel at the Arette distillery in the town of Tequila itself.

More recently, Tommy's has poured Dos Lunas as its house tequila.

As for style, Bermejo tends to favor valley, or lowland, tequilas over highland ones. His reasoning is simple. Valley tequilas are more pungent, and that suits American palates that want to actually taste the spirit, while highland tequila tends to be more delicate and subtle by comparison.

He also thinks about the season and the weather. On a cold or foggy day, he leans toward something aged, like a reposado or añejo, for the extra depth and body. On a hot day, or if he's somewhere warm, he'll reach for a crisp, bright blanco instead. In his own Tommy's Margarita at home, he's said he actually enjoys añejo, appreciating the softness and complexity it brings to the glass.

Why It Matters Beyond the Glass

I like sharing stories like this one because it's a good reminder that expertise built over decades, in any field, tends to come from genuine care rather than shortcuts. Bermejo didn't set out to invent a world famous cocktail. He just wanted to serve something honest, made with quality ingredients, at his family's restaurant. That's a philosophy I try to bring to my own work here in the Bay Area, whether I'm helping someone find their next home or just sharing something fun and local for a Friday afternoon.

If you're planning a get-together this summer, maybe pick up a bottle of Arette or a nice blanco and give the Tommy's approach a try. Simple, honest ingredients tend to be the ones that hold up best, whether we're talking about a margarita or a home.

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